1/4/2008

The most astonishing wine I've tasted this year is Tommaso Bussola TB Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2003.  Unfortunately it will retail at about $230 for a 500ml bottle but it's a lucious sweet red that's as rare as it is extraordinary.  Made by the ancient Roman method of partially drying the grapes (as for Amarone), it's a high-impact wine of amazing concentration, liquer-like sweetness and viscosity, and incredible length - all with just 12 percent alcohol.  Smelling of sweet berries, jam, stewed fruits and spices, it is so complex to make description seem ridiculous, with none of the technical glitches that often afflict such wines.  It was a showpiece at a tasting staged by one of Australia's most passionate importers of Italian wine, David Ridge [actually imported by Global Fine Wines with assistance of David Ridge], (pictured) who after working with several bigger companies has returned as a small independent importer in Adelaide.  ... retail stockists include Annandale Cellars  ... United Cellars.

Apart from Bussola's excellent range from Valpolicella (his '03 Ca del Laito Ripasso, a deliciously soft, rich, fleshy red was the best buy of the tasting at $42), there was a very good range of Soaves from Coffele, and an idiosyncratic but highly enjoyable bunch of Piedmontese reds from Ciabot Berton, including the monumental '03 Barolo Roggeri ($98) and a more affordable but also impressive '05 Barbera d'Alba ($35).

Huon Hooke